The first thought I had this morning, after a wonderful 10 hour sleep (!!!), is if the farmer sold his rooster. I didn’t hear him this morning – just the faint calls of the neighbor roosters. A few minutes later I was relieved to hear that he was still there…I might just have been too tired from yesterday’s hike to hear him.
It is late in the morning, and we enjoyed our breakfast of fruit and cereal grains with a hot cup of coffee while looking out over the ocean. For the fourth time in the last few days, I watched a small speed boat head out south/south-west. Where are they headed? …there is nothing out there.
After breakfast, we headed out to Los Llanos. We parked our car and asked an old white-haired lady with a cane if she could point us in the direction of the farmer’s market. She consulted with two other ladies that just happened to be passing by, and the consensus is that we need to go 2 street over and walk straight down hill for 5 minutes until we run into the market. The directions are right on, and we meander down yet another town of perfectly clean roads, quaint colorful houses, and gardens full of trees and flowers.
We find the market at the end of the pedestrian zone, and walk through once before deciding to buy anything. We return to the stands where we saw things that peaked our curiosity, and walked away with sweet-sour grapes, sweet tomatoes, huge red onions, pimentos del Padron, and a bag full of tangy tree tomatoes – all for a steel: 7,80€!!!
We walk back to our car, purposely winding through tiny roads with more colorful houses – some just taller than I at the entrance. We then quickly make our way home and make lunch – a skillet dish of potatoes, carrots, pimentos del Padron, onions, olives, tree tomatoes, and a hint of oregano. Wow – the tree tomatoes are a tangy explosion of sweetly citrusy tomato softened potatoes in every bite. Fantastic!
After lunch, we head off to the beach in El Remo – the salty smell in the air calms me and I am flooded with joyful feelings of my childhood. I have not been on a beach in 8 years. And, I have never seen a black sanded beach.
We reach the beach – it is relatively small for a beach, but perfectly nudged in between volcanic rocks – like everything else around here. The sand is hot – really hot. We lay down on our mats and our towels, and still feel the burning heat soaked in by the island on our bodies. The beach is pretty empty at 5:00pm. The life guards have the red flag hanging high, forbidding everyone from swimming, it is high tide and there are strong rip currents. An hour later, the yellow flags go up, the tide begins to subside, swimmers enter the lively waters, and the life guards stand directly on the beach to keep a close eye. It is still not 100% safe, but the beach is starting to fill. The sun is still high enough in the sky, and it will soon entertain everyone with a spectacular sunset. As the tide falls, we walk to the water and cool our feet in the cold waves. Every time a wave subsides back into the ocean, it reveals the end of the island…it just drops off a few meters in front of us. How beautiful and scary at the same time.
We make our way back home and rid ourselves of the cakey-feeling of sunscreen under the shower, and make our way off to dinner. On our way we met our hostess, Karen, a really nice German lady who speaks with her hands like a true Spaniard. She convinces us to change the restaurant we want to visit because they have a larger vegan selection.
We drive to Franchipani, and are seated in a small room with 3 large tall wooden tables. The service is spectacular, and our waitress speaks German and Spanish. We were delighted throughout the night with the service of a 1-star restaurant, but, unfortunately, the food was not as impressive. The thought behind each dish was creative and well meant, but not well executed, and I left with indigestion from overly oiled food and a yogurt sauce that accidentally ended up on my vegan dish. Such a shame…it was very promising. I think I will move here one day and open a vacation rental complex with a restaurant down bellow. I can definitely do better than this.
A beautiful stone house with red tile roof, reminiscent of the traditional Canary-style architecture of ages ago…with small apartments on either side of the house to rent. In the middle is a restaurant that spills into a patio in a large garden where we will harvest the ingredients for the dishes we will prepare. After a day’s work, I will sit out on my patio – all lights turned off on the property – and watch the amazing view of the stars and planets in the night’s sky. This place is perfect.